Bad Boy David Chang: London "Most Vicious City," No Restaurants

July 2, 2012 6:24 PM EDT | By Anthony Smith
David Chang
David Chang explains himself. (Photo: Creative Commons)

Bad Boy David Chang: London "Most Vicious City," No Restaurants

by Anthony Smith

For better or worse, when it comes to food, nobody does it quite like David Chang does. Having successfully branded himself in New York with an approach to Korean fare that cleverly acknowledges not just the trendy trappings of its urban backdrop but the homespun nostalgia that even the hippest have for their childhoods, Chang now has his sights set on world domination.

Where's next for this superstar chef? According to an interview with Bloomberg Businessweek's Richard Vines, it could be anywhere-- just not London.

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"London is the most vicious city in the world, no doubt about it," Chang remarked, making a pointed reference to Observer critic Jay Rayner and their very public fight over whether or not his Ma Peche restaurant served dessert. Full disclosure: it does, and it's not bad, but Jay Rayner seemed to suggest otherwise.

The night following Rayner's otherwise positive review, Chang tweeted, sans punctuation: "Dear Didn't know fact checking was optional This is very silly. It's irritating and utterly British. Bon chance motherfuckers!"

But though it seems like the error is on Rayner, the offending incident may have more to do with the hip pretentions of David Chang's family. Rayner wrote not that the restaurant did not offer dessert, but that it was a struggle to get the server to bring a few cookies to their table in lieu of a "spotlight [on] artisan cheeses." Their dessert bar, he argued, was reserved for take away orders only. He called the experience "very irritating... and utterly New York."

But absent of who's right or wrong here, we can't help but swoon over Mr. Chang's twitter response to his family's ridicule: "dear geoffrey rush u helped king george w his stammer, can u help rainier w his writing skills. we will get the food better, promise. xoxo dc"

All things considered, we're scared of what he might have to say to us. Lord knows we deserve it.


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