Why We Predict a Meteoric Rise for "Station" in Williamsburg

July 24, 2012 3:21 PM EDT | By Anthony Smith
"Station" in Williamsburg charms, wows. (Photo: Yelp)

Though there are a few notable exceptions to the rule, I don't hesitate to say that I've discovered an uncanny governance to eating in the outer boroughs: the closer you are to a train station-- especially a major train station-- the worse your food is.

Chalk it up to marketing: when a restauranteur can rely on an exceptional location for his eats, ze need not worry too much about the food being anything more than mediocre. As long as the stuff that's served up is serviceable, and the experience is overall positive, customers will come. It's much easier than hunting for gems, an activity I take for granted given that it's my business to do so. Others can't be bothered.

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Fortunately for the lazy, the hungry, and the hard-to-please, Station proves a worthy exception to the rule. Sprouting from the head of the now-ignominious Bedford Avenue train station on North 7th and Bedford, it's a restaurant whose execution was carefully articulated to succeed. If the location doesn't draw you in, the romantically DIY ambience with its open kitchen and subway tiled walls are all but guaranteed to charm. Everyone's been throwing around the phrase "pseudo-pseudo-steampunk" lately to describe the charmingly ramshackle comings-up in the neighborhood, so consider this a knowing nodding of the head and a resisting of the phrase.

And charm it will-- even until the wee small hours of the morning, as the restaurant seats from 5PM to 2AM on the weekdays. In other words, if you're drunk, or otherwise messed up, and you're looking for fine-dining during the week, you need not feel so S.O.L-- even if you're vegan. That's right, they have an entire vegan menu that boasts traditional French foods like ratatouille and chocolate cake. For omnivores, their menu scores big points for boasting simply and exquisitely cooked duck and scallops.

And as far as the locals' reviews go, at time of writing, it has a perfect five stars on Yelp at time of writing. If that's not a reason to get off your butt and check it out, we don't know what is.

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